With recipes for:
- Pork Loin With Brandied Cherries
- Sour Cherry Sauce
- Cherry Clafouti
- Pan-Roasted Duck Breast With Cherry Sauce
- Cherry Rice Pudding With Pine Nuts
Remember that line from the 1968 song “Big Yellow Taxi” by Joannie Mitchell - “Paved paradise and put up a parking lot”? That seems to describe what’s happening to the habitat of one of my favorite fruits, the Bing cherry of Santa Clara Valley CA, which has become better known for silicon chips than fruit in the last quarter century.
I think the Bing, particularly as it is grown in this area of Northern California, is the world’s finest cherry - rich, juicy and full of flavor. The problem is that Santa Clara Valley’s orchards are quickly disappearing, being replaced by the high-tech industry, condos and the other trappings of “progress” (including parking lots).
So enjoy the Santa Clara Bing while you can because it may not be around much longer.
HISTORY:
Evidence of cherries has been found in prehistoric enclaves in several parts of the world. According to professor U.P. Hendrick, author of “The Cherries of New York,” the Chinese were probably the first to domesticate cherries - we’re not sure if they were sweet or tart - perhaps as many as four thousand years ago. But Hendrick says the earliest records available indicate that the Greeks were the first to cultivate cherry plants, perhaps getting them from Asia Minor. Pliny the Elder, the Roman writer and statesman, listed 10 varieties of cherries that were grown in Italy as well mentioning the spread of cherries to Germany, Belgium, France, Portugal and England with the conquering Roman armies.
Known as “ciliegia” in Italian, “kerasos” in Greek, and “cerise” in French, the cherry came to the United States with settlers as early as 1629 from Kent in England where it had flourished after being replanted there by the gardener of King Henry VIII.
First planted in Massachusetts by the Pilgrims, cherries also arrived through the St. Lawrence River and into the Great Lakes area with French colonists from Normandy. By 1847, cherries were in full commercial cultivation in Oregon.
The type of sweet cherry we’re most familiar with is probably native to the Caspian and Black Seas.
WHERE GROWN:
Cherries grow in a wide belt that encircles the globe from as far north as the Arctic Circle to almost the Tropic of Cancer. The United States is the world’s biggest producer, consumer and exporter of cherries. Other major producing nations, in order of production, are Germany, Italy, Switzerland and France.
Sweet cherries are grown on the West Coast, with Washington the largest producer. California is a solid No. 2, with Oregon third and small amounts coming from Utah and Idaho. British Columbia in Canada contributes to the market as well. Chile is the major exporter in winter.
Tart cherries - the tart cherry industry is not wild about the word “sour” –are grown primarily in Michigan, where the Grand Traverse Bay area provides perfect conditions such as good elevation, dependable rainfall, high humidity and sandy soil with good drainage. Tart cherries are also grown commercially in New York, Pennsylvania, Utah and Wisconsin. Smaller amounts are grown in Colorado, Ohio and Oregon.
VARIETIES:
The favorite sweet cherry varieties in the Eastern United States are the Windsor, Schmidt, Victor, Napoleon, and Black Tartarian. In the West it’s the Bing, Lambert and Rainier.
Named for a Chinese worker, Bing cherries are usually very firm with glossy deep red to black or mahogany skin, a white heart (the area immediately around the pit), and a bit of a crunch when you bite into them. Heart-shaped Lamberts are smaller, more tender, dark red in color, soft, with somewhat watery flesh producing deep red, almost blackish red juice.
Rainier cherries, despite what many think, are not related to Royal Anns (also known as Napoleons). They are yellow to amber with a pink to red blush. They are more fragile than Bings or Lamberts and have a very sweet and mild flavor, juicy flesh and a white heart. The Royal Anns are used in the production of maraschino cherries, those beautiful bright red and green cherries we use on sundaes. The sweet Burlat is an early variety.
Though there are 270 varieties of tart cherries, only a few are grown commercially. Tart cherries are classified in two groups, distinguished from each other by the color of the fruit’s juice. Clear juice tart cherries are known as Amarelles, or Kentish in Britain. They have less acid and a less pronounced sour taste than the darker varieties. The Early Richmond (or Richmond) and the Montmorency varieties are the best known of the Amarelles. The Montmorency, which originated in the Montmorency Valley of France, is by far the most cultivated of all tart cherries.
Morellos, or as the French call them, Griottes, have darker fruit with colored juice. The English Morellos are the most common of the darker tart cherries.
SEASONS:
The sweet cherry season begins in May with Burlats which, when available,
don’t last very long. Bings begin to arrive in mid-June, Lamberts and
Rainiers later in the month. The California crop peaks in June; the Santa
Clara Valley crop usually begins by mid May and is gone by the end of June.
The Washington crop peaks in July. Rainiers end in early August, Lamberts
and Bings a few weeks later.
Small amounts of Canadian imports, from British Columbia, come mostly in
June and July. Imports from Chile—mostly Bings—may arrive as
early as October, peak from the end of November to the end of December, and
end in January.
July is the prime time for tart cherries, with the third week of the month often the peak of the harvest. However, outside the growing areas, tart cherries can be scarce because they do not travel well.
SELECTION, HANDLING & STORAGE:
A ripe sweet cherry is heavy for its size – meaning it has plenty of juice – and is meatier and sweeter than an immature cherry. Cherries that are hard, small and lighter in color were probably picked too soon. Overripe fruit is soft with a dull cast and shriveled skin. Avoid fruit that is sticky or shows signs of decay. Sour cherries should be bright-looking, firm fruit, plump and bright scarlet in color. All fresh cherries should still have their stems attached and be clean and dry.
Keeping cherries as cool as possible protects the texture and flavor from the effects of warm summer temperatures. Cherries can decay more in one hour at room temperature than they can in 24 hours at 32 degrees.
Though the rule of thumb with cherries, as with berries, is not to wash the fruit until you are ready to use it, I’ve successfully kept rinsed and thoroughly drained (or towel-dried) fruit in the refrigerator for several days up to almost a week. Freeze them if you don’t plan to use them within six days. Wash and drain them dry, then spread them evenly over a cookie sheet or flat tray and freeze them. When frozen solid, transfer the cherries to a plastic bag. They’ll keep up to a year this way.
NUTRITION:
One cup of pitted sweet cherries has 140 grams (about 5 ounces) and contains 90 calories, 23 grams of carbohydrates, 3 grams of dietary fiber and 1 gram each of protein and fat. Cherries provide small amounts of vitamin C and calcium, 8% and 2% of the RDA, respectively. Tart cherries are a good source of vitamin A, with over 10% of the RDA, almost five times that of sweet cherries. Sweet and sour cherries have decent amounts of potassium as well, about half that of bananas.
YIELD:
Cherries are sized in what is called rows, which dates back to when the cherry industry packed the top layer of cherries in neat rows. If 10 cherries fit snugly, that size became a 10 row, and so on. A 9 row cherry is considered the largest (probably too large for best flavor, actually) and 12 row the smallest. There are 54, 10.5-row cherries in a pound. A pound of sweet cherries will yield about 2-1/2 cups of pitted and sliced fruit, depending on the size of the cherries.
TIP:
Don’t be put off if Rainier cherries have some skin discoloration in the form of scuffing or brown spots. They’re often a sign of high sugar content.
PREPARATION:
While cherry pitting can be a bit tedious, especially if you’re doing larger quantities, I consider cherry pitters unnecessary. I prefer to simply make a slit, north to south, around the circumference of the cherry and pull it apart. Then pop out the pit with the tip of a paring knife or your fingers. Food maven Barbara Kafka suggests pushing the pit through the stem end after the stem is removed. This does work but it’s pretty messy. By using my method, the cherries are not only pitted but halved as well, which is the way most recipes want them.
Cinnamon and nutmeg are two prime cherry seasonings. So are almonds and
almond flavorings such as almond extracts and almond liqueurs. Chocolate
and cherries are a natural, which is why chocolate covered cherries have
been around so long. At the other end of the spectrum, so is vanilla.
Kirsch, the clear cherry brandy, can intensify the cherry flavor in many
cherry dishes. However, since most kirsch is harsh to the taste (an exception
being St. George Cellars brand in Oakland CA), I prefer maraschino liqueur.
Unfortunately, maraschino liqueur is a little more difficult to obtain than
kirsch. Such are life’s dilemmas.
PORK LOIN WITH BRANDIED CHERRIES top
This recipe was originally supposed to be pork loin stuffed with figs, but there were no figs in the market that week. Try it either way, and with apricots too. A great summer buffet dish.
1 1/2 cups pitted and halved cherries
3 tablespoons brandy
Center cut pork loin, about 3 pounds
Salt and pepper to taste
1) Soak cherries in brandy one hour. Drain and reserve juice.
2) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butterfly pork loin (there is a natural seam that will make it easy). With the loin laid out flat, season with salt and pepper and lay the cherries evenly down the center. Roll up and tie with butcher’s string.
3) Put the pork on a rack in a shallow roasting pan, fatty side up. Season with salt and pepper and pour cherry juices over. Bake 70 minutes or until internal temperature reaches 150 degrees in the center.
4) Cover pork with aluminum foil and let rest at least 10 to 15 minutes. Cut into 1/2-inch thick slices. Serves 6 to 8.
Sam’s Cooking Tip: Pork loin can easily dry out from overcooking. Make sure you get the center cut, which is the leanest section of the loin.
SOUR CHERRY SAUCE top
It may seem silly to sweeten sour cherries to make them taste like sweet cherries, but even when sweetened, sour cherries have a slight tartness reminiscent of cranberries. And, in fact, sour cherries can be used much like cranberries, in crisps, relishes and sauces like this one, which is terrific over vanilla ice cream.
3 cups (about 1 1/4 pounds) sour cherries, pitted and halved
2/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon orange rind, cut in julienne strips
2 tablespoons bourbon or brandy
1/4 cup toasted almonds, coarsely chopped
1) Combine sour cherries, sugar, orange rind and bourbon in a saucepan. Set aside for 30 minutes.
2) Bring to a boil over moderate heat. Simmer about 8 to 10 minutes. Cool, then stir in almonds. Makes about 3 cups.
CHERRY CLAFOUTI top
This is an old-fashioned French custard or pudding, so old-fashioned, in fact, that the French don’t normally pit their cherries. (Ouch!)
2 1/2 cups cherries (about 1 pound), pitted and halved
3 tablespoons kirsch
4 large eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 sifted all-purpose flour
1 cup milk
3/4 teaspoon almond extract
Butter-flavored spray
Powdered sugar
1) Toss cherries in kirsch and marinate 30 minutes or more. Drain and reserve 1 tablespoon liquid. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2) Meanwhile, combine eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl and mix well by hand or with an electric mixer. Then add flour, then milk, almond extract and the tablespoon of cherry marinade.
3) Spray an 8-cup baking or gratin dish or deep pie plate with butter-flavored spray. Spread cherries evenly in the pan and pour batter over.
4) Bake in the middle of the oven for 25 to 30 minutes. It will be puffy around the edges but very slightly runny in the center. Cool to warm and serve sprinkled with powdered sugar. Serves 6.
PAN-ROASTED DUCK BREAST WITH CHERRY SAUCE top
Fresh cherries and duck have been a natural combination since creation of the classic French dish Duck a la Montmorency, which was initially made with a tart type of cherry.
2 boneless duck breasts, each about 12 ounces with skin, 8 ounces without
skin
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1/2 cup Port
1 cup pitted cherries, quartered if larger, halved if small
1/2 teaspoon arrowroot mixed with 2 tablespoons chicken stock
Salt
Black pepper to taste
1) Cut duck breasts in half to form 4 breast halves. Set aside.
2) Melt butter in a saucepan or skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and ginger and cook until shallots soften, about 3 minutes. Add Port, cherries, arrowroot solution and a pinch of salt. Cook about 5 minutes, until cherries soften but are not falling apart and mixture thickens slightly. Set aside.
3) Heat a large skillet over high heat until a drop of water instantly evaporates on its surface. Add duck breasts, skin side down, and lower heat to medium-low. Cook 5 minutes.
4) Remove duck breasts from the skillet, take off skin and season both sides with salt and pepper. Pour off all but a thin haze of duck fat from the skillet (not much more than a teaspoon of fat) and put over medium-high heat. When fat smokes add duck breasts. Cook 5 minutes and turn over. Cook 1 minute more for medium rare.
5) Meanwhile, warm the cherry sauce and spread thinly on 4 plates. Cut each duck breast into 6 or 7 slices on the diagonal. Fan slices on the sauce. Serves 4.
Sam’s Cooking Tip: Most good butcher shops have duck breasts. If you don’t have such a butcher shop close by, you have three alternatives: a) Bone out the breasts from two ducks (and use the rest for another purpose such as cassoulet), b) Order from a company such as D’Artagnan at (800) 327-8246, or c) Use an equivalent size of turkey cutlets.
CHERRY RICE PUDDING WITH PINE NUTS top
Since cherries are a warm-weather fruit, and no one wants to turn on the oven in July, this dish is a perfect solution. Rice pudding on top of the stove.
2 cups evaporated skim milk
2 cups skim milk
1 tablespoon butter
3 tablespoons pine nuts
1 cup Arborio rice
3 tablespoons kirsch
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon orange zest
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup cherries, pitted and halved
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1) In a heavy bottomed saucepan, warm both types of milk.
2) In a large, heavy bottomed saucepan, heat butter and toast pine nuts over low heat until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Add rice and stir.
3) Add kirsch and cook a minute. Then add half of the skim milk mixture, the vanilla and the orange zest. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, until almost all of the liquid is absorbed.
4) Add remaining warm skim milk, sugar and cherries. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. The mixture should be a little on the soupy side, slightly more runny than a regular risotto. Cool to warm and transfer to a serving bowl, or spoon out into individual dishes. Sprinkle with cinnamon. Serves 4 to 6.