All About Pears:

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Maybe it’s coincidence, and maybe it’s the fruit itself, but some of my fondest fruit memories involve pears, specifically Bartlett pears. The first memory is the smell of the bushels of perfectly ripe pears my mother bought at the farmers’ market. It was part of her canning ritual each late summer as the weather was beginning to turn cool and football season was starting. The whole house was perfumed with the intoxicating smell of pears as Mom put up over 100 quarts. To this day, the end of summer and the start of football make me think of Mom’s canned pears.

The second memory is of an alfresco lunch my wife Mary and I had in a small park just off St. Mark’s Square in Venice. School children were playing around a fish pond exclaiming ‘Pesce! Pesce!’ as we munched on ripe Barletts, a torta layered with mascarpone and Gorgonzola cheeses and whole wheat bread, all washed down with a bottle of Lacryma Christi. It’s hard to imagine a simpler but more satisfying meal. Gorgonzola and Bartlett pears remain one of my favorite food matches.

History

Native to Asia, pears spread to ancient Greece, then throughout Europe, during the Roman Empire’s reign. As late as the 15th century, pears were cooked more often than not because of their hard texture and bitter taste.

During the 17th and 18th centuries European noblemen gardeners experimented with the fruit, trying to see who could get a softer flesh first. Those crossbreedings resulted in the pears we know today. Pyrus communis is the species from which most of today’s cultivated pears were developed. In the European literature one might find as many as 5,000 pear varieties named, but here in the United States, publications identify “only” about 1,000 varieties.

During the 18th century, Nicolas Hardenpont, a Belgian priest, developed the first pears that had flavor as well as a soft, juicy flesh. Pears traveled with the early colonists from England and France to North America, and records indicate their arrival in the Massachusetts Bay Colony in about 1640. The French introduced pears along the Detroit River basin about 1700, and Spanish friars brought the fruit to California in the 1700s.

Where Grown

The primary producers today are China, the United States and Italy. There is some production in areas of Russia, Japan, Spain, Turkey, Germany, France, and Argentina.
California, Oregon and Washington account for 98% of the pears grown commercially in the United States. Minor growing regions include New York and Pennsylvania.

Varieties

The eight most common pear varieties are the Anjou, Bartlett, Bosc, Comice, Seckel, Winter Nellis, Hardy, and Wilder. The Anjou has its origins in France and was introduced to the United States about 1842. It is a medium sized fruit with a roundish shape and a short neck. It remains green when ripe and is quite juicy and sweet, though it also has a somewhat tannic bite. The red Anjou is similar in taste and texture and remains red when ripe.

The Bartlett is the result of a chance seedling introduced to the United States in 1797 from Europe where it is called the Williams pear and from which the famous Poire William eau de vie or clear pear brandy is made. It is usually medium to large with a classic pear shape. It ripens to bright yellow and gives off a lovely perfume. Sweet and juicy, the Bartlett is perfect for eating out of hand but it is also an excellent canning pear. The red Bartlett has bright red skin when ripe but otherwise has the same characteristics as the yellow Bartlett.

The Bosc pear has its origin in Belgium and was introduced to the United States in 1832. It is rather large with a long, tapering neck and long stem. Color ranges from deep yellow to dark tan and the skin often has a russet look. The Bosc is sweet, but not particularly juicy with dense flesh that makes it ideal for cooking, especially baking or poaching.
The Comice is a French variety developed about 1849. It has a stubby, almost round shape with green skin and often a significant red blush on one cheek. Considered the king of the pears because of its extreme juiciness and sweetness, the Comice is the variety most often found in the holiday gift boxes. Because of its delicate nature, it is the least likely candidate for cooking, though it is a favorite for pairing raw with cheese as a dessert.

The Seckel was developed around 1800. It is a small variety with a dull green caste and often red highlights. It is very sweet with a somewhat grainy texture since it is a hybrid of European and Asian pears. Seckel pears are the variety most often found in home orchards.

The Nellis or Winter Nellis (sometimes spelled with one L) originated in Belgium, coming to the United States in 1823. Though it is a good all-purpose pear for eating out of hand and cooking, it suffers from a rather unattractive appearance. Small to medium in size, it has a dull yellow-green russeted, almost mottled, skin.

The Hardy is another French pear, developed about 1820. Large and of very good quality, it is sold fresh and also processed for use in fruit cocktail. The Wilder was developed in New York about 1884 and tends to be large and oblong and of good quality.
Among the several lesser known pears is the Forelle. It is another good holiday pear in part because of its attractive golden yellow color, bright red blush and characteristic red freckles. Rather small, it is sweet and quite juicy.

The Packham is a fairly new strain, developed in Australia. It is similar to the Bartlett in color and flavor but has a rougher shape. Also like the Bartlett, it can be used for eating out of hand and cooking, though it should be firm when used for the latter.
The Clapp or Clapp’s Favorite was found by chance in Massachusetts in 1850. It is a large, oval, greenish-yellow pear with a bit of a red blush. It resembles the Bartlett in size, shape, color and flavor, though it may be grainy and gritty. The Red Clapp’s Favorite may be marketed as the Stark Crimson and Red Bartlett by unknowing (or uncaring) retailers. It has good flavor, but its storage life is very short.

The Morettini is a medium-size, quince-shaped green Italian pear that has yellow and red highlights and good flavor.

Asian pears are sometimes called apple-pears or pear-apples because they have the juiciness of pears and the roundness and crispness of apples. But despite the popular notion, they are not a hybrid of the two but a true pear. Asian pears are not quite as flavorful as European pears, but unlike other pears (or apples) the flesh will not brown when exposed to the air.

Though there are about 10 varieties of Asian pears marketed, you won’t see more than one or two in your market, unless it happens to cater to an Asian clientele. Colors can range from green to yellow-green to russet brown.


Seasons

In California, the pear season normally begins with the Morettini which starts at the end of June or early July. The Stark Crimson comes in after that and Bartletts and Red Bartletts begin in the third week of July. Bartletts usually run through December. The Bosc, Comice and Seckel pears become available in August with Seckels ending in February, Comice in March and Bosc in April.

Both the Nellis and Forelle begin in September, with the Forelle ending in February and the Nellis a few months later. The Anjou is considered a winter pear whose season does not begin until October but lasts through May and occasionally into June. (Note: along the mid-Atlantic states at least, pear season in 2004 has been delayed a few weeks because of rainy weather.)

The season for Asian pears begins in late July with Hosui and Shinseiki. In mid-August come the Twentieth Century, Kosui and Kikusui. Shinko arrives in early September and Niitaka in late September.

Chile is by far the largest exporter of pears into the United States, with 16 varieties cultivated, primarily the Packham, followed by the Bosc, Red Sensation and Bartlett. The peak is February and March but with decent supplies in April, May and June. Chile also exports Asian pears.


Selection, Handling & Storage

For the perfect pear, keep author Edward Bunyard’s observation in mind: “As it is, in my view, the duty of an apple is to be crisp and crunchable, a pear should have such a texture as leads to silent consumption.”

Pears are among the few fruits that improve after they’re picked as long as they are picked fully mature, but not ripe. If left to ripen fully on the tree, pears can become mealy. Generally, mature pears are picked and then held in controlled atmosphere environments (like apples) until ready for retail sale. Pears that are harvested before they are fully mature can develop a grittiness, mainly around the core.

Select green pears that are firm, not soft, and free of blemishes or bruises. The stems should be intact. Leave them out at room temperature and they will ripen in a few days to a week, depending on the maturity when purchased. Most pears show subtle changes in color as they ripen and some will develop a sweet fragrance as they ripen. To be sure the one you select is ready to eat, apply gentle pressure to the stem end of the pear with your thumb. If it yields slightly, it is ready.

If you choose to hold off the ripening process, the fruit should be refrigerated, which will keep it in a kind of suspended animation for three to four weeks until it is ready to ripen. Once ripe, a pear will not last much more than a couple of days, even in the refrigerator. If you find the pear’s texture excessively coarse, woody, or gritty, it has been left too long on the tree.

As with apples, Asian pears are ready to eat when picked. Green-skinned varieties should have turned some yellow before they are ready to eat. Russet varieties should have a nice, deep golden color. Though they will last a week at room temperature, it’s best to refrigerate them in plastic, which allows them to keep up to three months.

Nutrition

One average pear weighing about 166 grams has 100 calories, 25 grams of carbohydrates, 1 gram of fat and protein, 4 grams of dietary fiber, 10% of the RDA for vitamin C and 2% each for iron and calcium. Pears are also a decent source of potassium.
Pears also contain high levels of pectin and boron. Studies have shown pectin helps inhibit certain cancers such as colon cancer. Boron promotes the stimulation of electrical activity in the brain. It also helps the body to retain calcium, which prevents or retards osteoporosis.

Yield

A pound of European pears, about three medium, yields approximately 3 cups of sliced fruit. A pound of Asian pears, about 4 or 5, provides about 2 cups of sliced fruit.

Tip

Scars or blemishes, if only on the skin, will not affect the flavor. Some russeting will occur on even the best pears.

Preparation

The best and simplest way to eat pears is out of hand, requiring nothing more than a sharp pocket knife or paring knife to cut slivers off while on a picnic or just sitting on the porch on an early fall afternoon.

A standard apple corer and vegetable peeler will suffice for dishes that require clean halves or chunks. For whole-pear presentations, try to keep the stem on. It gives the pear a regal look. This is particularly true for Bosc pears, which are best for poaching because they maintain their shape better than other pears.

Seasonings that go best with pears include cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and ginger. Nuts, especially almonds, match well with pears. Pears are also a good fruit for cheese trays, which I prefer as a separate course, sometimes in lieu of dessert, not as an hors d’oeuvre.

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 PEARS POACHED IN ZINFANDEL AND ORANGE ZEST top

Bosc pears hold up well to this spicy poaching liquid. Serve this with a dollop or two of vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt, or some almond biscotti.

1 teaspoon allspice berries
1 bottle fruity red Zinfandel
1 cup water
Zest from 1 large orange, julienned
2 1/2 cups sugar
1 cinnamon stick
6 Bosc pears with stems

1)Put allspice in a tea ball or cheesecloth. Put the allspice and all other ingredients except pears in a non-reactive saucepan large enough to hold all the pears. Bring to a boil, then simmer, stirring a few times until sugar is dissolved.

2)Meanwhile, peel and core pears, leaving them whole with stems attached. Put them in the wine mixture and cover with a plate so that pears remained submerged. Gently boil until they are easily pierced by a paring knife, about 20 to 25 minutes.

3)Remove pears and stand them upright in a deep platter. (Cut a small slice from the bottoms, if necessary, to allow pears to stand easily). Discard cinnamon and allspice, and reduce liquid to about 2 cups or until it becomes slightly syrupy. (It will thicken more as it cools.)

4)Spoon poaching liquid over pears every 5 minutes for a half hour or more until pears get a nice deep sheen. Let strands of orange zest drape decoratively over the sides and top of the pears. Serve each cooled pear in a shallow dish in a small pool of wine glaze.

Serves 6. 

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 PEAR COMPOTE WITH HARD CIDER top

Compotes with pears, dried fruit, nuts and cider are very evocative of cooler weather. If you can’t find hard cider, sweet cider will do, but you will probably need less sugar.

2 Bosc pears, peeled, cored and cut into ½-inch cubes
1 cup pitted prunes
1 cup dried apricots, halved if large
1 1/2 cups hard cider
1 tablespoon chopped candied ginger
1/2 cup dried cherries or cranberries
Sugar to taste

1)Combine all ingredients except dried cranberries or cherries and sugar, in a non-reactive saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, 5 minutes.

2)Add cranberries or cherries and cook, covered, 10 minutes more. Taste and add a few tablespoons of sugar, if desired, then heat a few more minutes, gently stirring to incorporate the sugar. Cool and serve warm or at room temperature as a dessert or breakfast dish.

Serves 4.

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 DUCK BREAST WITH OVEN-ROASTED PEAR SAUCE top

Roasting pears brings out marvelous flavors. You should look for fruit that is barely ripe and still quite firm. In addition to duck breast, they are great with sautéed foie gras, a dish I first made while vacationing in the Dordogne.

2 Bartlett or Anjou pears, peeled, cored and halved
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon sugar
Kosher salt
Butter flavor spray
1 boneless duck breast, about 30 ounces with skin
1/2 teaspoon aromatic pepper (see Sam’s Cooking Tip)
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1/4 cup pear brandy or a richly flavored Chardonnay
2/3 cup chicken stock
1/4 teaspoon arrowroot mixed with 2 tablespoons chicken stock

1)Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Cut pear halves, crosswise, into about 1/3-inch thick slices. Combine cinnamon, sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt in a mixing bowl. Add pear slices and toss well. Spray an oven- proof skillet with butter flavor spray. Add pear slices and spray with butter flavor spray. Cook in the oven, turning once, for 20 minutes or until tender.

2)Meanwhile, remove skin from duck, reserving half of the skin. Cut breast halves into 4 equal pieces, about 4 to 5 ounces for reach piece. Put breast pieces between sheets of foil. Pound with a meat pounder or the side of a cleaver to 1/2 of their original thickness. Season both sides with salt and aromatic pepper.

3)Heat a large skillet over high heat until a drop of water instantly evaporates on its surface. Add duck skin and lower heat to medium-low. Cook, covered, 5 minutes. Discard skin, pour off all but a thin haze of duck fat and put pan over medium-high heat. When pan just begins to smoke add the duck breasts. Cook 3 minutes on each side for medium rare. Remove to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm.

4)Add the shallots to the skillet. Cook until shallots soften, about 2 minutes. Add pear brandy and stir a minute. Add pears, chicken stock and arrowroot mixture. Cook a few minutes, until sauce thickens slightly.

5)Cut each duck breast piece into 5 or 6 slices on the diagonal. Fan slices on the each of 4 plates. Put the pears and sauce on the side.

Serves 4.

Sam’s Cooking Tip: Aromatic pepper is equal amounts of freshly ground allspice berries and black peppercorns.

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 PEARS STUFFED WITH BLUE CHEESE top

With a sweet dressing this could be a dessert or perhaps a cheese and dessert course combined. But here, with a more savory dressing made with Dijon mustard, minced shallots and olive oil, it could be a first course.

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
11/2 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons Port wine
2 ounces quality blue cheese at room temperature
3 tablespoons cream cheese at room temperature
2 large ripe Comice pears
Mint sprigs for garnish

1)Combine lemon juice, honey and Port. Set aside. Put blue and cream cheeses in a small bowl and mix until completely combined.

2)Core pears, leaving them whole. With a paring knife or small melon baller, scoop out a little more from the center of the pears, being careful not to crack or split them. The cavity should be about 3/4-inch wide through the center of the pears.

3)With a butter knife, fill the hole in each pear with the blue cheese mixture, packing it tight, but again being careful not to crack the pears. Peel pears, then slice pears in half, lengthwise. Put a half, cut side down, on each of 4 small plates.

4)Drizzle about 11/2 tablespoons of Port dressing over each pear half. Garnish each plate with a mint sprig.

Serves 4.

Sam’s Cooking Tip: Even though it sounds strange, the pears in this recipe are stuffed, then peeled because Comice pears are so juicy, they’re harder to handle when peeled.

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